Down a laneway, through a hint of robata smoke, Yamagen awaits. Inside, flavour turns fearless and flame-tipped – umami cut with citrus, miso tangled with caramel, restraint sharpened by invention. Seafood steals the spotlight: sliced raw, grilled to perfection, tempura’d to a crackle. And the bar keeps pace. Cocktails flirt (all eyes on yuzu), the wine list runs over 100 bottles deep, and rare whiskies bring the heat. Pull up a seat.